iComputer7 (Sean)
@icomputer7.xyz
Stream of consciousness. Electronics and reverse engineering enthusiast. Collects microcontrollers and weird old electronic crap. Loves cats.
Currently in my film photography era.
icomputer7 on Twitter, ic7 at frogs.lgbt on Mastodon
Currently in my film photography era.
icomputer7 on Twitter, ic7 at frogs.lgbt on Mastodon
Yua serufu??? Yooooo
January 1, 2026 at 1:01 AM
Yua serufu??? Yooooo
It was very rough on the emulsion, as you might be able to see from all the holes. It only worked at 110F and even then, still took 15+ minutes. This is the first sheet I did as a test to figure out what ISO to shoot at. 1st picture is right out of the bleach and 2nd is after re-development
December 17, 2025 at 11:41 AM
It was very rough on the emulsion, as you might be able to see from all the holes. It only worked at 110F and even then, still took 15+ minutes. This is the first sheet I did as a test to figure out what ISO to shoot at. 1st picture is right out of the bleach and 2nd is after re-development
Haibane Renmei mentioned 🗣🗣🗣
December 11, 2025 at 6:44 AM
Haibane Renmei mentioned 🗣🗣🗣
Comparison on a light table
December 6, 2025 at 7:46 AM
Comparison on a light table
to get a decent positive. In person there's a violet cast and it's dull and thin. Also the orange around the edges was my fault. I accidentally exposed the sheet to light for a split second trying to load my camera. Still a massive improvement over my previous best with this film from last year lmao
December 5, 2025 at 12:35 PM
to get a decent positive. In person there's a violet cast and it's dull and thin. Also the orange around the edges was my fault. I accidentally exposed the sheet to light for a split second trying to load my camera. Still a massive improvement over my previous best with this film from last year lmao
Exposed it at ISO 12 but later found out this film has really bad reciprocity failure. Meter said 30 seconds but the film needed maybe 100 seconds? First dev was HC-110 dil B for 8 mins at 105F which is weaker than what I normally do. Still very fogged out of the 1st dev but it helped just enough-
December 5, 2025 at 12:35 PM
Exposed it at ISO 12 but later found out this film has really bad reciprocity failure. Meter said 30 seconds but the film needed maybe 100 seconds? First dev was HC-110 dil B for 8 mins at 105F which is weaker than what I normally do. Still very fogged out of the 1st dev but it helped just enough-
Looks pretty uneven. Only thing I did different was not rinsing the remjet off before developing like I usually do
November 28, 2025 at 7:16 AM
Looks pretty uneven. Only thing I did different was not rinsing the remjet off before developing like I usually do
Will post pictures of the film on a light table later. Also, I'm just speculating here based on my limited knowledge so I could be entirely wrong about what happened
November 24, 2025 at 1:23 PM
Will post pictures of the film on a light table later. Also, I'm just speculating here based on my limited knowledge so I could be entirely wrong about what happened
I say this because for RA4 reversal prints (very similar process), a violet cast means too much magenta and not enough yellow. The final image is what *didn't* develop in the 1st dev. Since there wasn't much left of the yellow layer, there isn't much yellow in the final positive.
November 24, 2025 at 1:23 PM
I say this because for RA4 reversal prints (very similar process), a violet cast means too much magenta and not enough yellow. The final image is what *didn't* develop in the 1st dev. Since there wasn't much left of the yellow layer, there isn't much yellow in the final positive.
May need to try lowering the temperature and simply wait longer for the chemicals to warm up. My theory: 110F is too hot and it's causing something before or during the 1st dev to heavily fog the outermost layer (yellow dye layer on Vision3 AFAIK) and start to fog the next (magenta)
November 24, 2025 at 1:23 PM
May need to try lowering the temperature and simply wait longer for the chemicals to warm up. My theory: 110F is too hot and it's causing something before or during the 1st dev to heavily fog the outermost layer (yellow dye layer on Vision3 AFAIK) and start to fog the next (magenta)
📷: Canon EOS Rebel II + Canon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
🎞: Lomochrome Purple, shot at ISO 200, developed in fresh ECN-2 at 100F for 3 minutes
🎞: Lomochrome Purple, shot at ISO 200, developed in fresh ECN-2 at 100F for 3 minutes
November 11, 2025 at 3:22 AM
📷: Canon EOS Rebel II + Canon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
🎞: Lomochrome Purple, shot at ISO 200, developed in fresh ECN-2 at 100F for 3 minutes
🎞: Lomochrome Purple, shot at ISO 200, developed in fresh ECN-2 at 100F for 3 minutes
The flyback transformer for its CRT runs at a slightly lower frequency (~14.6 kHz) than normal CRT TVs (15.7 kHz) and that little difference is enough for the sound to drive me absolutely insane
November 7, 2025 at 1:44 PM
The flyback transformer for its CRT runs at a slightly lower frequency (~14.6 kHz) than normal CRT TVs (15.7 kHz) and that little difference is enough for the sound to drive me absolutely insane
So, I got some Vision3 50D today and stuck a 36 exposure roll into the Palette. I loaded up all the color pictures I already had on the Power Mac and let it work. I started it at like 5:30 PM yesterday and it has just now finished at 7:38 AM. There's still 2 exposures left but I shut the machine off
November 7, 2025 at 1:44 PM
So, I got some Vision3 50D today and stuck a 36 exposure roll into the Palette. I loaded up all the color pictures I already had on the Power Mac and let it work. I started it at like 5:30 PM yesterday and it has just now finished at 7:38 AM. There's still 2 exposures left but I shut the machine off
Sadly nobody has figured out how to make new film profiles for this thing so this is what I currently have to work with. The only ones that are still made are Fuji Neopan (AKA Acros) and Kodak TMAX. Normal Gold is still made but not Gold Plus. I've been using the TMAX 100 profile for B&W. Seems okay
November 4, 2025 at 12:23 PM
Sadly nobody has figured out how to make new film profiles for this thing so this is what I currently have to work with. The only ones that are still made are Fuji Neopan (AKA Acros) and Kodak TMAX. Normal Gold is still made but not Gold Plus. I've been using the TMAX 100 profile for B&W. Seems okay