Weihrauch HW100 Gas Leak
My PCP air rifle is a Weihrauch HW100 T.
The rifle developed a slow leak: I could fill and use it, but over the course of a couple of days any stored pressure would be gone. This was problematic because leaving the gun empty for long periods can allow moisture to find its way into the cylinder.
My leak appeared after I'd removed the cylinder for a depressurisation. I refilled it before re-attaching, so the seals will have gone from 1 to 200 bar in an instant (which is fine... until it isn't).
This post describes dismantling the gun to replace various o-rings. It walks through checking the most likely culprits up to replacing the regulator seals and then resetting the regulator pressure.
* * *
### Contents
* Contents
* First Check: Cylinder
* Leaking Gun
* Identifying The Leak Location
* Disclaimer
* Tools
* Stock Removal
* Brass Valve Seals
* Regulator Seals Replacement
* Pre-warning
* Process
* Adjusting The Regulator
* Attaching a gauge
* Dismantling to Adjust
* Adjusting
* Checking Shot Consistency
* Re-Assembly
* Monitoring
* Contents
* First Check: Cylinder
* Leaking Gun
* Identifying The Leak Location
* Disclaimer
* Tools
* Stock Removal
* Brass Valve Removal
* Regulator Seals Replacement
* Pre-warning
* Process
* Adjusting The Regulator
* Attaching a gauge
* Dismantling to Adjust
* Adjusting
* Checking Shot Consistency
* Re-Assembly
* Monitoring
* * *
### First Check: Cylinder
The _very_ first thing to identify was whether the leak was in the gun or the cylinder.
I unscrewed the cylinder from the gun and charged it with air.
There were now two options:
* Leave the cylinder out for a couple of days and see whether the pressure still dropped
* For a quicker check: tie a rubber glove (condoms work in a pinch) over each end and see whether they started to inflate.
If the cylinder's air pressure gauge had dropped (or the rubber attachments started to inflate) it would have indicated that the leak was in the air cylinder (requiring different steps to those described here).
* * *
### Leaking Gun
My cylinder didn't lose pressure while it was off, indicating that the issue was one of the seals within the gun itself.
The most likely (and helpfully, easiest to access) seal is the small rubber o-ring on the brass valve where the gun meets the cylinder:
Sometimes it can be enough to add a little bit of (airgun safe!) grease to this.
My hands were a little too big to get in there, so I dipped the end of a bamboo skewer in the grease and then carefully spread it around the o-ring.
I screwed the cylinder back on and hoped the pressure would read the same the next day.
* * *
### Identifying The Leak Location
Unfortunately, I wasn't _quite_ that lucky and the pressure dropped just as it had before.
It was time to do a small amount of disassembly to identify where the leak was coming from.
You'll want the air cylinder pressurised and screwed in for this.
* * *
#### Disclaimer
Before we start, a quick safety chat.
PCP air rifles contain high pressure air - the recommended fill level for my HW100 is 200 bar (2900 PSI).
That's _more than enough_ to cause significant harm.
* Obstructing the flow with body parts can lead to air embolism
* Obstructing something _propelled by_ that air can lead to puncture injuries.
Either can have frighteningly severe consequences (up to and including death).
The repairs described in this post are simple to perform but, if you're doing similar, the ultimate responsibility for your safety rests with **you**. I can't accept any liability for anything that happens.
If you don't feel absolutely confident performing repairs, pay a qualified specialist instead.
* * *
#### Tools
It's time to start talking tools and supplies.
* Gas Leak detector spray (or soapy water)
* 10mm socket and wrench
* Allen Keys
* Replacement Seal Kit
* Moly Grease
If things get as far as removing the regulator, you'll also want
* An Airgun Chronograph
* Regulator Setting Gauge
* A pair of needle nosed pliers
* * *
#### Stock Removal
The stock is help on by two allen headed screws, remove them:
The stock slides down and off, leaving you with the action.
On the underside of the block there is a line of three holes
Facing these upwards and spraying with leak detector fluid can help identify where the leak is coming from:
In my case, you can see that the hole on the left ended up blowing a big bubble.
Air coming out from each of the holes indicates a different thing:
Left | Middle | Right
---|---|---
Regulator Seals | Regulator test port seal | Brass Valve Seal
If bubbles come out of the right, it indicates that the seal that we greased earlier is the issue.
If the air isn't leaking out of any of these, the leak is further up the block - unfortunately, this post doesn't cover dealing with that (though we will be accessing some of those seals).
The regulator seals consist of three o-rings, one of which is accessible by removing the brass valve, so I (optimistically) decided to try and get away with only replacing that.
As a result, the first steps in this post are much the same as if the leak had showed on the righter-most hole hole.
If you've got a regulator adjustment gauge, attach it and take a reading so that you know roughly what the set pressure was (remember that it may read a little lower as the result of the leak).
* * *
### Brass Valve Seals
The brass valve is made of, err, brass. In other words, it's very soft and you need to be careful not to scratch it with ill-fitting tools.
The valve has a 10mm head on it, so use a socket and wrench to unscrew it until it comes out
If you look down the hole again, you'll now see the head of the regulator and, around the edge, an o-ring
I used a pointy ended spudger to hook the o-ring out. Bamboo skewers can also work, you just don't want anything too likely to scratch anything.
Once you've got it out, find the replacement o-ring in your set, lightly grease and then drop it down the hole before (carefully) pushing into place.
Next, use your finger nail to remove the o-ring from the front of the valve. If you need a tool, use a toothpick or similar to avoid scratching the brass:
Push the new o-ring onto the end of the valve.
Some HW100s apparently have an o-ring on the back of the valve too so, if you have one, replace that as well:
Apply a thin layer of grease to both and then carefully screw the valve back into the block:
Screw down until it's tight, but don't try and overtighten it: the block is made of aluminium (ergo, is soft) and the valve is brass, you don't want to be stripping threads.
Screw the cylinder back into the block and repeat the gas leak fluid test.
If you're lucky, there now won't be a leak.
* * *
### Regulator Seals Replacement
I _still wasn't_ that lucky.
* * *
#### Pre-warning
Stripping down to do the regulator seals involves disturbing seals that are single use only: you'll definitely want to have a full seals kit on hand.
We're also (obviously) going to be disturbing the regulator, which has a couple of consequences:
* Your rifle could cross the legal power limit
* Your shots could become less consistent, impacting accuracy
* You might reduce the number of shots you can get between fills
You _might_ not care about the first1 but will almost definitely care about the second and third.
To proceed with this, you're going to want to make sure that you've got a chronograph (so you can check power output) and (ideally) a regulator servicing gauge.
If you don't mind a bit (ok, _a lot_) of trial and error, you _can_ do without the regulator servicing gauge - it just means that you have to re-assemble, test with a chrono and then dismantle again to adjust the regulator.
* * *
#### Process
Remove the air cylinder and then use your socket to loosen (but not yet remove) the brass valve.
If, like me, you'd tried to get away without disturbing scope mounts you're now out of luck: they're going to need to come off.
The trigger mechanism is held in place by two screws. There's one at the rear:
And one at the front:
Once these are removed, the entire trigger mechanism lifts up and out
Next, we need to split the rear and front actions.
These are held together by the two horizontal screws in the photo above. Slacken both off:
Slide them both carefully out.
You should now be able to slide the front block away from the rear action.
Now we need to remove the breech block which is held in by two allen headed screws.
There's a spring loaded valve under it, so cover the block with your thumb as you slacken the screws to prevent anything pinging off:
Once it's removed you should be able to remove the breech block, the exhaust valve and the spring:
If you look at the breech block you'll see an o-ring. This o-ring is single use so **must** be replaced - do that now while you remember
If your leak didn't come out of any of the holes in the bottom of the block, there's also a white PTFE o-ring down that hole in the breech block that you should replace.
We now have unimpeded access to the regulator adjustment nut.
This requires a larger (5mm) allen key than the ones you've used so far:
Unscrew and remove the nut, being careful to keep the nut facing upwards.
If you look down the hole, you'll now see a pile of washers and (possibly) a little plastic cover.
These are Belleville washers which function as a strong spring behind the regulator piston.
Pull the plastic cover out and then put an allen key down the middle of the belleville washers to preserve position/order (although they may look flat, they're slightly cupped & order matters3).
Very carefully tip them out and (leaving on the allen key) set safely aside.
Now, unscrew and remove the brass valve (again :( ).
If you look down the hole, you'll see the top of the regulator piston. It has a little spike on it - you should be able to grasp this with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out (if it doesn't want to come, to avoid damage, push it out backwards instead)
Replace the o-ring (remembering to apply some grease)
The piston sits within a sleeve. If you look in the back of the block you should see the back of that sleeve.
Carefully press an allen key against it to push it forwards into the block.
You should then be able to reach in and hook it out
It should, hopefully, bring the other o-ring that we replaced earlier with it, meaning that you'll see two o-rings:
You can re-use the o-ring that we replaced earlier (set it to one side for a minute) but replace the other and apply some grease.
Carefully push the regulator piston back into the sleeve (making sure not to nick the o-ring on the piston):
Note: when refitting, it won't matter which way the hole in the side is pointing - the block has a groove cut out so it can point in any direction.
Put the sleeve, seal first, back in the front of the block and carefully press into place.
Then put the second o-ring back in:
Screw the brass valve back in place:
Flip the block back over and put the washers back in, remembering to position the little plastic cover (if you had one) over the hole:
Screw the adjuster back on top of the washers. Try to make it about as tight as it was when you first undid it (we'll adjust it later).
Drop the exhaust valve and spring back into place:
Put the breech block back on and screw it down.
Screw the air cylinder back on, put the block upside down and use leak fluid to check whether you still have a leak.
Happily, _finally_... I did not!
If you've got an adjuster gauge, now's the time to adjust the regulator. If not, jump down to Re-Assembly.
* * *
### Adjusting The Regulator
To do this properly, you'll need a regulator gauge (like this one). _Ideally_ you want a digital one, but they're pretty expensive.
The regulator's role is to limit the pressure of air in the plenum (the section between the regulator and the exhaust valve) so that each shot is propelled by the same amount of air resulting in much more consistent shots than achievable by an unregulated rifle (where output pressure is, more or less, equal to whatever's left in the bottle).
Although the air cylinder is charged up to 200bar, the regulator is likely to be set at more like 90 bar.
What this section describes isn't _technically_ tuning: to tune the gun you'd normally set the regulator and then adjust the hammer strike so that the two are in balance.
However, the HW100 has an anti-tamper on the hammer, so what we're seeking to do here is to get the regulator set so that it's back in balance with the hammer, ensuring that:
* Shots are consistent
* The power remains consistently below the legal limit
* We're not wasting air (and therefore shot count) for no benefit
* * *
#### Attaching a gauge
First, unscrew the air cylinder to ensure that the block is depressurised.
Remember the three holes on the bottom of the block?
The middle one is the regulator test port. It's capped with a small torx grub screw and a ball-bearing.
Unscrew and remove the grub screw.
Carefully turn the block upside down to tip out the ball bearing. Sometimes you need to press it up and down slightly with a finger tip to work it out of the hole.
The ball bearings _are_ known for getting stuck, so you might also find that it won't come out.
This is **far** from the recommended approach (stripping the regulator back out so that you can push the ball bearing through), but I sat my block on top of a pile of rags and carefully screwed a partially charged cylinder in to blow the stuck ball bearing out into the rags.
Your gauge probably came with a washer, pop that on the end and then screw it into the test port, nipping it up slightly with a spanner
Carefully screw the air cylinder back in.
If it pisses out air, you may need to tighten the gauge. However, hold your hand in the stream to check where the air is coming from because it might also be the front hole: I accidentally chewed up the brass valve o-ring when screwing the cylinder in and so had to replace it.
If it's air tight, the gauge should start showing the post regulator pressure:
The reading in this photo is the result of my eye-balling when re-assembling the gun and is set too high.
* * *
#### Dismantling to Adjust
You now have a gauge attached to the bottom of your block:
To adjust pressure you're going to need to be able to get at the regulator adjustment screw.
We can, however, take a bit of a shortcut
* Unscrew the scope mount screws on the front block (if you've a scope fitted)
* Unscrew the long block joining screws. They won't come all the way out because the trigger assembly is in the way, but they _will_ undo fully
You can then slide the two parts apart to access the regulator screw.
* * *
#### Adjusting
The regulator pressure is adjusted by turning the regulator adjustment screw (there's no need to remove the breech block this time):
Directions are
* Tighten (right): increase pressure
* Loosen (left): reduce pressure - never loosen it all the way (remember that there's 200bar of air on the other side!)
However, loosening the screw **will not** lead to an immediate drop in pressure because the plenum will already be at the original pressure. You'll need to depressurise the block if you want to adjust down, so it's best to depressurise, adjust right down and then work back up whilst under pressure.
Desirable regulator pressures are apparently between 80 - 90 bar.
However, be aware that the setting has a direct impact on output power, the following are the muzzle velocities that I measured with 15.89 grain pellets whilst trying different settings:
It's also worth remembering that different velocities will be achieved by different weights of pellet. Although it might be tempting to try and get the rifle to sit right on the legal limit, doing so risks coming in over if the Police were ever to run a test with their own choice of pellet.
Once you've adjusted the regulator to where you think it needs to be, slide the two halves together again and tighten down the screws.
Cock and fire the gun several times2 to check that the gauge reliably returns to where you've set it even after the regulator has settled.
Leaving the gauge attached for now, go somewhere that you can safely fire the gun, attach a Chrono and put some pellets through, noting pellet weight and output velocities as you go.
You can use an online calculator to convert feet per second to ft-lbs, or you can use the following equation
(FPS)^2 x (weight-in-grains / 450240)
So, for example:
578 fps ^2 = 334084
15.89gr / 450240 = 0.000035292
334084 * 0.000035292 = 11.7905 ft/lb
You need to ensure that your highest observed measurement is below 12 ft/lb.
If you're not happy with the output that your getting (or if it's wildly inconsistent), head back to the bench and adjust the regulator some more.
Once you're happy
* Unscrew the air cylinder to depressurise
* Remove the gauge
* Pop the ball bearing back in
* Screw the grub screw back in (don't torque it down too much, otherwise you may get the ball bearing stuck - just beyond finger tight is fine)
* Re-attach the stock
* Screw the air cylinder back in
* * *
#### Checking Shot Consistency
The final thing that you'll want to check is that the rifle is giving consistent shots: changes in output power affect the point of impact, so you want to make sure that the adjustment hasn't led to too high a rate of fluctuations (there will always be _some_).
Take the gun somewhere that you can safely shoot and put some holes through a target.
Your scope will almost certainly need re-zeroing, but the primary aim here is to make sure that pellets land in more or less the same place - any wild flyers could be a sign that your regulator pressure might be out of balance with the hammer strike4.
If you're happy, move onto Monitoring.
* * *
### Re-Assembly
For safety's sake, remove the air cylinder again.
Press the front and rear action back together and screw in the two long screws:
Sit the trigger mechanism back in place and then tighten down it's screws:
Slide the stock back into place and put the retaining screws back in:
Screw the air cylinder back in and re-attach your scope.
Your rifle is re-assembled!
You'll want to attach a chrono and fire some pellets to verify that:
* Output power is consistent
* Output power is below the legal limit (you can use a calculator like this one to convert to lb/ft)
If either isn't true, it points to a need to adjust the regulator.
* * *
### Monitoring
Once you're happy, fill the cylinder back up and make a note of the gauge reading:
Leave the gun for a couple of days and t.. title: Weihrauch HW100 Gas Leak .. slug: weihrauch-hw100-air-leak .. date: 2025-12-26 14:57:00 UTC .. tags: documentation, howto, shooting, hw100, weihrauch .. category: documentation/shooting .. link: .. previewimage: /images/Documentation/hw100-regulator-seals/pressure_gauge.jpg .. description: Post describing an air leak that I had on my HW100 air rifle and how I resolved it. Walks through the process of changing the regulator seals and then using a gauge to help adjust the regulator pressure. .. type: text .. author: Ben Tasker .. status: draft
My PCP air rifle is a Weihrauch HW100 T.
The rifle developed a slow leak: I could fill and use it, but over the course of a couple of days any stored pressure would be gone. This was problematic because leaving the gun empty for long periods can allow moisture to find its way into the cylinder.
My leak appeared after I'd removed the cylinder for a depressurisation. I refilled it before re-attaching, so the seals will have gone from 1 to 200 bar in an instant (which is fine... until it isn't).
This post describes dismantling the gun to replace various o-rings. It walks through checking the most likely culprits up to replacing the regulator seals and then resetting the regulator pressure.
* * *
### Contents
* Contents
* First Check: Cylinder
* Leaking Gun
* Identifying The Leak Location
* Disclaimer
* Tools
* Stock Removal
* Brass Valve Seals
* Regulator Seals Replacement
* Pre-warning
* Process
* Adjusting The Regulator
* Attaching a gauge
* Dismantling to Adjust
* Adjusting
* Checking Shot Consistency
* Re-Assembly
* Monitoring
* Contents
* First Check: Cylinder
* Leaking Gun
* Identifying The Leak Location
* Disclaimer
* Tools
* Stock Removal
* Brass Valve Removal
* Regulator Seals Replacement
* Pre-warning
* Process
* Adjusting The Regulator
* Attaching a gauge
* Dismantling to Adjust
* Adjusting
* Checking Shot Consistency
* Re-Assembly
* Monitoring
* * *
### First Check: Cylinder
The _very_ first thing to identify was whether the leak was in the gun or the cylinder.
I unscrewed the cylinder from the gun and charged it with air.
There were now two options:
* Leave the cylinder out for a couple of days and see whether the pressure still dropped
* For a quicker check: tie a rubber glove (condoms work in a pinch) over each end and see whether they started to inflate.
If the cylinder's air pressure gauge had dropped (or the rubber attachments started to inflate) it would have indicated that the leak was in the air cylinder (requiring different steps to those described here).
* * *
### Leaking Gun
My cylinder didn't lose pressure while it was off, indicating that the issue was one of the seals within the gun itself.
The most likely (and helpfully, easiest to access) seal is the small rubber o-ring on the brass valve where the gun meets the cylinder:
Sometimes it can be enough to add a little bit of (airgun safe!) grease to this.
My hands were a little too big to get in there, so I dipped the end of a bamboo skewer in the grease and then carefully spread it around the o-ring.
I screwed the cylinder back on and hoped the pressure would read the same the next day.
* * *
### Identifying The Leak Location
Unfortunately, I wasn't _quite_ that lucky and the pressure dropped just as it had before.
It was time to do a small amount of disassembly to identify where the leak was coming from.
You'll want the air cylinder pressurised and screwed in for this.
* * *
#### Disclaimer
Before we start, a quick safety chat.
PCP air rifles contain high pressure air - the recommended fill level for my HW100 is 200 bar (2900 PSI).
That's _more than enough_ to cause significant harm.
* Obstructing the flow with body parts can lead to air embolism
* Obstructing something _propelled by_ that air can lead to puncture injuries.
Either can have frighteningly severe consequences (up to and including death).
The repairs described in this post are simple to perform but, if you're doing similar, the ultimate responsibility for your safety rests with **you**. I can't accept any liability for anything that happens.
If you don't feel absolutely confident performing repairs, pay a qualified specialist instead.
* * *
#### Tools
It's time to start talking tools and supplies.
* Gas Leak detector spray (or soapy water)
* 10mm socket and wrench
* Allen Keys
* Replacement Seal Kit
* Moly Grease
If things get as far as removing the regulator, you'll also want
* An Airgun Chronograph
* Regulator Setting Gauge
* A pair of needle nosed pliers
* * *
#### Stock Removal
The stock is help on by two allen headed screws, remove them:
The stock slides down and off, leaving you with the action.
On the underside of the block there is a line of three holes
Facing these upwards and spraying with leak detector fluid can help identify where the leak is coming from:
In my case, you can see that the hole on the left ended up blowing a big bubble.
Air coming out from each of the holes indicates a different thing:
Left | Middle | Right
---|---|---
Regulator Seals | Regulator test port seal | Brass Valve Seal
If bubbles come out of the right, it indicates that the seal that we greased earlier is the issue.
If the air isn't leaking out of any of these, the leak is further up the block - unfortunately, this post doesn't cover dealing with that (though we will be accessing some of those seals).
The regulator seals consist of three o-rings, one of which is accessible by removing the brass valve, so I (optimistically) decided to try and get away with only replacing that.
As a result, the first steps in this post are much the same as if the leak had showed on the righter-most hole hole.
If you've got a regulator adjustment gauge, attach it and take a reading so that you know roughly what the set pressure was (remember that it may read a little lower as the result of the leak).
* * *
### Brass Valve Removal
The brass valve is made of, err, brass. In other words, it's very soft and you need to be careful not to scratch it with ill-fitting tools.
The valve has a 10mm head on it, so use a socket and wrench to unscrew it until it comes out
If you look down the hole again, you'll now see the head of the regulator and, around the edge, an o-ring
I used a pointy ended spudger to hook the o-ring out. Bamboo skewers can also work, you just don't want anything too likely to scratch anything.
Once you've got it out, find the replacement o-ring in your set, lightly grease and then drop it down the hole before (carefully) pushing into place.
Next, use your finger nail to remove the o-ring from the front of the valve. If you need a tool, use a toothpick or similar to avoid scratching the brass:
Push the new o-ring onto the end of the valve.
Some HW100s apparently have an o-ring on the back of the valve too so, if you have one, replace that as well:
Apply a thin layer of grease to both and then carefully screw the valve back into the block:
Screw down until it's tight, but don't try and overtighten it: the block is made of aluminium (ergo, is soft) and the valve is brass, you don't want to be stripping threads.
Screw the cylinder back into the block and repeat the gas leak fluid test.
If you're lucky, there now won't be a leak.
* * *
### Regulator Seals Replacement
I _still wasn't_ that lucky.
* * *
#### Pre-warning
Stripping down to do the regulator seals involves disturbing seals that are single use only: you'll definitely want to have a full seals kit on hand.
We're also (obviously) going to be disturbing the regulator, which has a couple of consequences:
* Your rifle could cross the legal power limit
* Your shots could become less consistent, impacting accuracy
* You might reduce the number of shots you can get between fills
You _might_ not care about the first1 but will almost definitely care about the second and third.
To proceed with this, you're going to want to make sure that you've got a chronograph (so you can check power output) and (ideally) a regulator servicing gauge.
If you don't mind a bit (ok, _a lot_) of trial and error, you _can_ do without the regulator servicing gauge - it just means that you have to re-assemble, test with a chrono and then dismantle again to adjust the regulator.
* * *
#### Process
Remove the air cylinder and then use your socket to loosen (but not yet remove) the brass valve.
If, like me, you'd tried to get away without disturbing scope mounts you're now out of luck: they're going to need to come off.
The trigger mechanism is held in place by two screws. There's one at the rear:
And one at the front:
Once these are removed, the entire trigger mechanism lifts up and out
Next, we need to split the rear and front actions.
These are held together by the two horizontal screws in the photo above. Slacken both off:
Slide them both carefully out.
You should now be able to slide the front block away from the rear action.
Now we need to remove the breech block which is held in by two allen headed screws.
There's a spring loaded valve under it, so cover the block with your thumb as you slacken the screws to prevent anything pinging off:
Once it's removed you should be able to remove the breech block, the exhaust valve and the spring:
If you look at the breech block you'll see an o-ring. This o-ring is single use so **must** be replaced - do that now while you remember
If your leak didn't come out of any of the holes in the bottom of the block, there's also a white PTFE o-ring down that hole in the breech block that you should replace.
We now have unimpeded access to the regulator adjustment nut.
This requires a larger (5mm) allen key than the ones you've used so far:
Unscrew and remove the nut, being careful to keep the nut facing upwards.
If you look down the hole, you'll now see a pile of washers and (possibly) a little plastic cover.
These are Belleville washers which function as a strong spring behind the regulator piston.
Pull the plastic cover out and then put an allen key down the middle of the belleville washers to preserve position/order (although they may look flat, they're slightly cupped & order matters3).
Very carefully tip them out and (leaving on the allen key) set safely aside.
Now, unscrew and remove the brass valve (again :( ).
If you look down the hole, you'll see the top of the regulator piston. It has a little spike on it - you should be able to grasp this with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out (if it doesn't want to come, to avoid damage, push it out backwards instead)
Replace the o-ring (remembering to apply some grease)
The piston sits within a sleeve. If you look in the back of the block you should see the back of that sleeve.
Carefully press an allen key against it to push it forwards into the block.
You should then be able to reach in and hook it out
It should, hopefully, bring the other o-ring that we replaced earlier with it, meaning that you'll see two o-rings:
You can re-use the o-ring that we replaced earlier (set it to one side for a minute) but replace the other and apply some grease.
Carefully push the regulator piston back into the sleeve (making sure not to nick the o-ring on the piston):
Note: when refitting, it won't matter which way the hole in the side is pointing - the block has a groove cut out so it can point in any direction.
Put the sleeve, seal first, back in the front of the block and carefully press into place.
Then put the second o-ring back in:
Screw the brass valve back in place:
Flip the block back over and put the washers back in, remembering to position the little plastic cover (if you had one) over the hole:
Screw the adjuster back on top of the washers. Try to make it about as tight as it was when you first undid it (we'll adjust it later).
Drop the exhaust valve and spring back into place:
Put the breech block back on and screw it down.
Screw the air cylinder back on, put the block upside down and use leak fluid to check whether you still have a leak.
Happily, _finally_... I did not!
If you've got an adjuster gauge, now's the time to adjust the regulator. If not, jump down to Re-Assembly.
* * *
### Adjusting The Regulator
To do this properly, you'll need a regulator gauge (like this one). _Ideally_ you want a digital one, but they're pretty expensive.
The regulator's role is to limit the pressure of air in the plenum (the section between the regulator and the exhaust valve) so that each shot is propelled by the same amount of air resulting in much more consistent shots than achievable by an unregulated rifle (where output pressure is, more or less, equal to whatever's left in the bottle).
Although the air cylinder is charged up to 200bar, the regulator is likely to be set at more like 90 bar.
What this section describes isn't _technically_ tuning: to tune the gun you'd normally set the regulator and then adjust the hammer strike so that the two are in balance.
However, the HW100 has an anti-tamper on the hammer, so what we're seeking to do here is to get the regulator set so that it's back in balance with the hammer, ensuring that:
* Shots are consistent
* The power remains consistently below the legal limit
* We're not wasting air (and therefore shot count) for no benefit
* * *
#### Attaching a gauge
First, unscrew the air cylinder to ensure that the block is depressurised.
Remember the three holes on the bottom of the block?
The middle one is the regulator test port. It's capped with a small torx grub screw and a ball-bearing.
Unscrew and remove the grub screw.
Carefully turn the block upside down to tip out the ball bearing. Sometimes you need to press it up and down slightly with a finger tip to work it out of the hole.
The ball bearings _are_ known for getting stuck, so you might also find that it won't come out.
This is **far** from the recommended approach (stripping the regulator back out so that you can push the ball bearing through), but I sat my block on top of a pile of rags and carefully screwed a partially charged cylinder in to blow the stuck ball bearing out into the rags.
Your gauge probably came with a washer, pop that on the end and then screw it into the test port, nipping it up slightly with a spanner
Carefully screw the air cylinder back in.
If it pisses out air, you may need to tighten the gauge. However, hold your hand in the stream to check where the air is coming from because it might also be the front hole: I accidentally chewed up the brass valve o-ring when screwing the cylinder in and so had to replace it.
If it's air tight, the gauge should start showing the post regulator pressure:
The reading in this photo is the result of my eye-balling when re-assembling the gun and is set too high.
* * *
#### Dismantling to Adjust
You now have a gauge attached to the bottom of your block:
To adjust pressure you're going to need to be able to get at the regulator adjustment screw.
We can, however, take a bit of a shortcut
* Unscrew the scope mount screws on the front block (if you've a scope fitted)
* Unscrew the long block joining screws. They won't come all the way out because the trigger assembly is in the way, but they _will_ undo fully
You can then slide the two parts apart to access the regulator screw.
* * *
#### Adjusting
The regulator pressure is adjusted by turning the regulator adjustment screw (there's no need to remove the breech block this time):
Directions are
* Tighten (right): increase pressure
* Loosen (left): reduce pressure - never loosen it all the way (remember that there's 200bar of air on the other side!)
However, loosening the screw **will not** lead to an immediate drop in pressure because the plenum will already be at the original pressure. You'll need to depressurise the block if you want to adjust down, so it's best to depressurise, adjust right down and then work back up whilst under pressure.
Desirable regulator pressures are apparently between 80 - 90 bar.
However, be aware that the setting has a direct impact on output power, the following are the muzzle velocities that I measured with 15.89 grain pellets whilst trying different settings:
It's also worth remembering that different velocities will be achieved by different weights of pellet. Although it might be tempting to try and get the rifle to sit right on the legal limit, doing so risks coming in over if the Police were ever to run a test with their own choice of pellet.
Once you've adjusted the regulator to where you think it needs to be, slide the two halves together again and tighten down the screws.
Cock and fire the gun several times2 to check that the gauge reliably returns to where you've set it even after the regulator has settled.
Leaving the gauge attached for now, go somewhere that you can safely fire the gun, attach a Chrono and put some pellets through, noting pellet weight and output velocities as you go.
You can use an online calculator to convert feet per second to ft-lbs, or you can use the following equation
(FPS)^2 x (weight-in-grains / 450240)
So, for example:
578 fps ^2 = 334084
15.89gr / 450240 = 0.000035292
334084 * 0.000035292 = 11.7905 ft/lb
You need to ensure that your highest observed measurement is below 12 ft/lb.
If you're not happy with the output that your getting (or if it's wildly inconsistent), head back to the bench and adjust the regulator some more.
Once you're happy
* Unscrew the air cylinder to depressurise
* Remove the gauge
* Pop the ball bearing back in
* Screw the grub screw back in (don't torque it down too much, otherwise you may get the ball bearing stuck - just beyond finger tight is fine)
* Re-attach the stock
* Screw the air cylinder back in
* * *
##### Checking Shot Consistency
The final thing that you'll want to check is that the rifle is giving consistent shots: changes in output power affect the point of impact, so you want to make sure that the adjustment hasn't led to too high a rate of fluctuations (there will always be _some_).
Take the gun somewhere that you can safely shoot and put some holes through a target.
Your scope will almost certainly need re-zeroing, but the primary aim here is to make sure that pellets land in more or less the same place - any wild flyers could be a sign that your regulator pressure might be out of balance with the hammer strike4.
If you're happy, move onto Monitoring.
* * *
### Re-Assembly
For safety's sake, remove the air cylinder again.
Press the front and rear action back together and screw in the two long screws:
Sit the trigger mechanism back in place and then tighten down it's screws:
Slide the stock back into place and put the retaining screws back in:
Screw the air cylinder back in and re-attach your scope.
Your rifle is re-assembled!
You'll want to attach a chrono and fire some pellets to verify that:
* Output power is consistent
* Output power is below the legal limit (you can use a calculator like this one to convert to lb/ft)
If either isn't true, it points to a need to adjust the regulator.
* * *
### Monitoring
Once you're happy, fill the cylinder back up and make a note of the gauge reading:
Leave the gun for a couple of days and then check back to verify that the reading is the same.
* * *
1. Though you should, however low the likelihood of getting caught, a firearms charge isn't something you want to be facing ↩↩
2. Although in a springer or Co2 gun this would be considered "dry firing", it isn't on a PCP: what matters on a PCP is that the valve is under pressure - you should never fire a PCP that isn't pressurised. ↩↩
3. If you do accidentally spill the washers, they need to be reassembled with two washers facing in the same direction, faced by two in the opposite (i.e. `(())(())`) ↩↩
4. Obviously you'll also need to factor in the wind and your own accuracy etc. ↩↩