AirPods Pro have been probably the best Apple product I have bought in years. Indeed Jobs’ vision of VR for ears realized.

I guess it all comes down to a platform which assumes physical controls, and where the market doesn't discourage paid-up-front games. It's a shame Vita was squeezed out by mobile, of all things. Such a nice, compact package, much more manageable than a Switch.

Voltage at no load is stable as a rock. Need to load test it too somehow, maybe using a couple of car headlight bulbs. Don’t want to tear down the living room PS5 for that. 😇

For the record, TEA2017AAT works too from what I hear on the interwebs. And it’s easily available on DigiKey too.

Just transplanted one with a little help of hot air as they are surface mounted on a tiny PCB.

Note - the pin on the right closer to the center is Accessory ID on the controller side, it’s just not connected on the charger. It’s mostly there for mechanical support I guess.

If only there would be a way to edit one's posts. I screwed up all the chip markings. First of all, the one on my power supply is LTA2016. And the candidate replacements from MPS are HR1210/HR1211 or HR1270/HR1275. Sorry about that.

Attaching a photo of HR1211 courtesy of ChargerLab.

My units have each a different issue - one attempts to provide 12V output and shuts down, the other one doesn't even start the PFC circuit, so the output is completely dead. I'll take that challenge. 🤓

I tracked the traces going from most of the pins and those seem to match what the datasheets of those chips document, and additionally, an MP1211 is used in Xbox Series X power supplies. So that is good to know. Just like in the first case though, the passive components sound healthy.

However the other one is a later FR variant and uses a different LLC/PFC combo chip in a SOIC-20 package with some custom marking of LA2016, which I, with the help of a friendly LLM, figured out as actually being one of MPS's controllers like MP1210/1211 or MP1270/1275.

One of the PS5 power supplies is a ADP400DR variant, uses more common parts like the DAP053T, which is known to have a replacement in TEA2016AAT in case it's bad. All the main passive components seem fine from the measurements. Perhaps some voltage feedback signals don't go across. To be continued.

Jokes aside, some of this stuff is assembled in Poland, and Vorwerk hires our developers for some of their software, at least used to, but the growth trap we're getting ourselves into means soon those manufacturing contracts will end as we'll get underpriced by less-developed economies in Europe. 🫣

For repairs I use a polish Yihua soldering station naturally, a locally-made microscope camera bought on Aliexpress, view the magnified image on a Motorola phone that runs a Poland-developed Android OS. Recently I even fixed a portable speaker made by our national treasure, JBL.

After work I relax on my Playstation. As my kids like to play on a Nintendo Switch, we sometimes hook it up to a Samsung TV to race together in Mario Kart. When hungry, we prepare some food using our Thermomix and some IKEA appliances made by Electrolux and Whirlpool (not Amica, sad).

I need to improve at such diagnostics though, and also get some additional tools like an electronic load, since it's a risk using an otherwise working console as a guinea pig.

It's possible it was sending too much voltage to the gate and those can only take so much (less than 5V max). Replaced the chip, the mosfet, and now the console runs without interruptions. Will test all those supplies in a demanding game - TLOU2 it is!

however the console ran on it for a few seconds only before the home's circuit breaker popped. This time the replacement MOSFET became stuck closed, i.e. shorted between the source and the drain. All fuses survived, so I think the PFC chip needed replacement after all.

The other one had the PFC MOSFET shorted on all legs, so it had to go. Seemed that if those are shorted to the gate, the PFC IC may be faulty too, but it read fine, so I replaced the bad components, and under test conditions all voltages were seemed okay...

The naked PS4 power supply came in a plastic bag with a loose SMD capacitor which had been ripped off the board, so I soldered it back on. After having checked the critical components I connected it and it was totally fine. The console would run with it smoothly too. I'm appalled.

Turned out the bridge was shorting the DC- and AC pins, just so happens I had a replacement available. This time after replacing the fuse and plugging the PSU in, both 5V and 12V registered healthy, so I threw the supply into the console and it came alive!